Tuesday, 15 April 2014

Wine Advocate by Monica Larner



2008 Cupano Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

A Sangiovese Grosso Dry Red Table wine from Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Monica Larner
WA # , #211 (Feb 2014)
Rating: 94
Drink 2017 - 2030
Cost: $136

The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a massively layered and brooding wine that opens with an excruciatingly slow aromatic evolution that bodes well for its longevity in your cellar. The aromas are dealt forward in generous, oversize portions with tones of cherry liqueur, mesquite smoke and mahogany. The mouthfeel is shaped by oak aging (30% of the wine sees 36 months of new French barrique) and shows sweet tannins and a long, fleshy finish. Cupano’s wines denote an international style, but they also have a proven track record for longevity. Drink: 2017-2030. Importer: Italian Wine Merchants, www.italianwinemerchants.com.
 

2009 Cupano Brunello di Montalcino

A Sangiovese Grosso Dry Red Table wine from Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Monica Larner
WA # , #211 (Feb 2014)
Rating: 92
Drink 2017 - 2028
Cost: $116

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is an unabashedly plush and modern wine with high extract and a big burst of ripe fruit that is tightly woven within its bold textural consistency. Biodynamic farming is implemented and the wine (40% of it) rests in new French oak for 30 months for extra softness, spice and intensity. Dark, sensual smoky tones fill in the rear with lighter brush strokes of toasted espresso, licorice and candied cherry. It is just beginning to shows its potential for further evolution, so give it more time. My only doubt concerns the high alcohol that is registered at 15% but feels like more. Drink: 2017-2028. Importer: Italian Wine Merchants, www.italianwinemerchants.com